Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Alpine SPS-609 Speakers - Unboxed

Just got my Alpine SPS-609 Type S speakers in!

- 260 Watts peak, 80 Watts RMS
- 3 Way Coaxial

I'll post again about the installation and make another video when it's done, bumping some tunes.

Here is the Unboxing Video:


And some high res pics:






Holley Carburetor Leaking At Fuel Inlet

The Holley 600cfm carburetor is leaking at the fuel inlet fitting. Gas leaking out onto the engine is not an ideal situation. One of the gaskets is a bit worn, and just won't make a tight seal.  I also gnarled the crap out of the end of the inlet with vice grips trying to tighten it, so a boxed end wrench won't even work anymore. Everything needs a replacement.

Location of leak:


Easy fix though. I ordered the entire fitting and inlet for $18. Should be in on Friday.
Holley part# 26-25
http://www.holley.com/26-25.asp

Friday, June 10, 2011

1974 Firebird Formula 400

I also have this 1974 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. My dad originally bought this car about 30 years ago. He is the second owner. This runs very strong and has upwards of 450+ horsepower. The car ran mid 12s in the ¼ mile.

Powertrain:
69’ Pontiac GTO 400 .030” over
     - Holley Hi Volume Fuel Pump
     - Holley 700 CFM Double Pumper
     - Edelbrock Performer Intake
     - Headers
     - Turbo Thrush Mufflers
     - Nunzi Special Cam – Duration 308/320” – Lift 480/495”
     - Double Roller Timing Chain
     - Accel Super Coil
     - MSD Ignition

- TH400 Trans
     - API 3000 Stall
     - B&M Valve Body and Shift Kit

- 4.10:1 Limited Slip Differential

Suspension:
Rear:
     - Stock
Front:
     - Stock
Interior:
     - Autometer Tachometer
     - B&M Shifter






 This is and older paint job. Same car though!




Wednesday, June 8, 2011

1979 Camaro Z28

This is a blog about my car, and other 2nd generation f-bodies, might as well show you what I have!

Powertrain:
- 5.7L 350
     - Edelbrock TM-1 Intake
     - Holley 600 CFM Carb
     - Headers
     - Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust
- TH350 Trans
- 3.42:1 Limited Slip Differential

Suspension:
Rear:
     - Landrum 200# Springs
     - Pro Shocks - Adjustable Shocks
     - Polyurethane Shackle Bushings
Front:
     - Stock

Interior:
     - Autometer Tachometer
     - Ridiculous 8 ball shifter knob
     - Sony Xplod head unit
     - Pioneer 3.5" Speakers
     - Alpine 6x9" Speakers


Here is the Camaro. I bought it 2 years ago. It is actually my first car, and my daily driver.


                               



Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Removing And Repainting Window Trim

Alright. My trim was a bit beat up, the black paint is chipping and it didn't look too nice.


What I used:
- Flat hooked piece of metal
- Paint Stripper
- Alcohol based primer/cleaner
- Rustoleum semi gloss black paint.

First things first. 

Removing the trim. This is the trickiest part. You need a flat piece of hooked metal, or a trim removal tool. I had to slide the metal/tool underneath the trim, follow along until I hit a 'tab' hooked onto it and pulled down on the tab. The trim should pop loose from the tab. It gets easy once you get the hang of it. Pulling too hard will break a tab though. Careful.

Removed all trim.


Next

Stripping the paint. Any paint stripper that works on metal should do here. I used this.


Well, I spread the paint stripper over the molding. I let it sit for a few minutes. It worked really well. The paint started bubbling and lifted right off the trim. It wiped right off with a rag.


After all the paint was removed, I used the alcohol based primer/cleaner to make sure all traces of the paint stripper was off the trim. This is important because even a small amount would ruin and bubble the next paint job.



They are ready for paint! 

I spray painted all the trim, and let it dry.

I reattached the trim back to the car. This is really easy. I just placed the trim over the tabs in the right spot, and they just snap in with a little bit of force. Looks good!



Done!





I'm not an expert. I'm just an enthusiast having fun with his Camaro. Use any advice at your own risk.






Swapping an Open Rear Differential into a Positraction / Limited Slip Differential

My Camaro has a 3.42:1 open rear differential. The 3.42 is good for acceleration without sacrificing too much gas mileage but there is just one little problem with an open rear; the one wheel peel.

It's almost embarrassing, laying only one streak of rubber. This is a muscle car!

So, to remedy the peg leg, I bought a 2.73:1 rear end with a posi 3 series carrier. Well the posi is great, but having such a high gear just won't do.  So this is where the swap comes in.

The goal here is to remove the carriers from both rear ends, swap the ring gears, and then put the posi carrier into the 3.42 rear end.

 It is a lot easier to swap carriers, instead of ring and pinions. Once you swap carriers all you have to worry about is getting a backlash of around .008" - .012".  Replacing your ring and pinion is a lot more in depth and requires a hydraulic press, among other things. Hard to do out of your garage and very easy to mess up. I recommend having a shop do this for you.

On to the swap!

What I used:

Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base
Torque Wrench
Needle Nose
Socket Set
Pry Bar
Brass hammer
Flat Head Screwdriver

First Steps

- Removed the differential cover and drained the old gear oil.
- Removed the c clamps on both sides of the carrier.

Next

- I rotated the carrier until I could find the the small bolt that hold the center pin in. 
- After I removed that the pin was easy to pull out. Don't pull the whole pin out though. Just need enough so you can push the axles in. 
- I pushed the axles in and the  axle c clip retainers fell out into the housing.
- I removed the axles, and the carrier was ready to come out.
- I removed the Carrier. It was a little tough to get out, so I had to use a pry bar. Careful not to pry on the ring gear, or spider gears.


Carrier is out. I removed both carriers from both rear ends.




The limited slip is on the left, and the open is on the right. You can tell it is a limited slip by the spring in between the spider gears, and the limited slip has a lot more supports running through the gear mount.

Also, an original limited slip carrier for an 8.5" GM corporate rear end will have the cast number 410408N.

Next

- I removed the ring gear from the carrier. Careful, the bolts are left handed, so "lefty-tighty, righty-loosey"
- The ring gear was pretty tight on there, I had to use a brass hammer, and a flat head to help knock the ring gear loose.


After you get it off, I don't recommend putting it on the floor like I did. You'll want to try to keep the gears and carrier a clean as possible.

At this point I swapped the ring gears, and began putting everything back in. Everything went back in the same way it came out except the limited slip carrier has the 3.42 ring gear and is going into the original rear end on my Camaro. 

After I got everything back on, I used the dial indicator to check the backlash. 


Well, I didn't have a magnetic base, so I used vice grips, a clamp, and a 2x4. Not the most accurate, but it did 0 out, so I figured it was fine. I got a backlash of .0095" which was within the range and fine. If it the backlash was out, I'd have to shim the carrier until it got to the proper backlash.

Everything looked good so I put the cover back on, lubed it up with 2 quarts of gear oil and a bottle of GM friction modifier so the clutch pack slips properly and doesn't chatter.

And since I had pulled the rear end out, I wire wheeled it, cleaned it up then painted it. I used Rustoleum hammered paints.


Done!



I'm not an expert. I'm just an enthusiast having fun with his Camaro. Use any advice at your own risk.